1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a method for setting and attaching a button or buttons and a pocket or pockets in place on an upper garment at the time of producing the same, and a method for producing an upper garment, and more particularly, a method for setting and attaching a front button or front buttons and a waist pocket or waist pockets in well-balanced positions on men's/women's upper garments at the time of producing the same upper garment in accordance with a so-called custom-making or easy-order-making production system and a method for producing an upper garment in accordance with the production system, the front button(s) and waist pocket(s) of which are set and attached in well-balanced positions.
Herein, the word "easy-order-making" is an English word coined in Japan, which is derived from the terms "custom-make (or custom-made)" and "made-to-order", and the term "an easy-order-making production system" represents one of the methods of garment production in Japan. In the production system, product specifications and component or part specifications, which meet the needs of the consumers with ease, are predicted and the possible range of specifications is set and standardized. In accordance with the matters thus set and standardized, preliminary arrangements are made and as necessary the respective matters are combined, whereby the clothes are produced. Namely, the inherent specifications are decided together with the respective consumers, while showing the possible specifications range before the consumer and the respective clothes are made to order. The preliminarily set and standardized matters include, for instance: a specific clothes item such as jacket, pants, skirt, vest, coat or shirt, etc.; design, such as silhouette showings an image of clothes as a whole, and details, such as pocket, dart, seam, collar, the end portion of sleeve or similar, size of the respective details; type of body and its correction, such as several basic types of body and its correction in some places; grading some specifications (conditions for producing the clothes); materials of the right side of clothes to be used; parts such as buttons, etc.; and similar. After the above-mentioned matters are standardized, the desired clothes are produced on the basis of the standardized matters by an assembly production line to provide the ordered clothes.
The term "upper garment" includes: a jacket; coat; and vest. The term "jacket" includes: a suit jacket; and a spare or odd jacket, such as blazer and sports jacket.
2. Description of the Related Art
Conventionally, in the case of producing men's/women's upper garment, for instance, a woman's jacket, to the order of a customer, there are several processes in the course between the initial order and the final product. Firstly, to grasp the needs of the customer and to give advice on selecting a fabric. Then, consulting design books, etc., to advise the customer on an appropriate jacket image from the fabric selected and the customer's proportions. Finally, to design a desired jacket.
The major matters to consider in jacket designing include: selection of garment length (for example, short length, semi-short length, medium length, semi-long length, and similar); selection of design for the portion from the center closing or front breasting portion through the lower edge for the jacket, i.e. front cut design (for example, tailored cut, round cut, slant cut, square cut, single-breasted, double-breasted, the number of buttons, etc.); selection of detail design (for example, lapels, pockets, etc.), and similar. Advising the customer on the above-mentioned matters and giving consideration to the entire silhouette are also matters to be considered.
Herein, the term "garment length" shall mean the length from the center back of the neck line, or from the nape of the neck down the center back, to the lower edge for an upper garment (i.e., jacket, coat, vest, etc.).
Thereafter, in accordance with the measuring guide, the size is taken from actual measurement of a customer's nude body with consideration of the physical features, such as proportions and type of body. After measuring, an appropriate bust pattern size is selected, and in order to make correction based on the bust pattern size, necessary fine-adjustment on the pattern is performed while advising the customer. Then, after imaging the ordered product as a whole, i.e. total looking, and checking up with the order, sewing follows and the desired product is made. Finally, advice to the customer on manners of wearing is given as the ending process, which is followed by after-sales service.
In the case of men's upper garments, a fine-adjustment on the pattern is necessary in the same manner as in the women's upper garments because the type of body etc. is different by the individual body as in that of women.
Generally speaking, both in men's and women's wear, there are the needs for a jacket of desired garment length, independently on their height and type of body, i.e. the needs of desired garment length all over the garment length.
However, in the course of conventional easy-order-making and custom-making production systems from the initial order of a jacket to the ending process, especially in the process of jacket designing, it has been difficult to make a jacket of every length form short through long with well-balanced positions of front buttons and waist pockets, while responding to the needs of garment in its full or entire length which are more particular in women's wear, and maintaining a waist shape position for the jacket. This is because, in the conventional easy-order-making and custom-making production system, setting and attaching of the positions of front buttons and waist pockets are based on the garment length, and thus when the jacket length is made longer, the positions of V-zones under the front neck, the front buttons and the waist pockets are simultaneously lowered to make the entire image too long, whereby the positions of the buttons and pockets are imbalance, and when the jacket length is made shorter, the positions of front buttons and waist pockets make the entire image too short, whereby the positions are imbalance.
For example, in the conventional method of adjusting the garment length, adjusting the garment length longer or short than a certain garment length is performed without changing the position of the waist shape, regardless of increase and decrease of the length, and there is no range of change or alteration for the waist shape position which corresponds to the angle of adjustment of garment length. A range of change for the top button position (V-zone) as been set a 1 to 2 increase and decrease (0.5 cm per 1 cm of the adjustment of garment length) of the adjustment range of garment length, a range of change for the bottom button position has been set at 1/2 increase and decrease of the adjustment range of garment length in accordance with the top button position, and a range of change for waist pockets positions has been set as 1/3 increase and decrease (0.33 cm per 1 cm of the adjustment of garment length) of the adjustment range of garment length. Since no change of the position of waist shape has been performed regardless of increase and decrease of the garment length, it has been difficult to keep the balance among positions of buttons and waist pockets, when the change is required.
Hence, the development of jackets which have the capability to correspond not only to the balance of height and center back waist length, but also to enough waist line silhouettes, the front buttons and waist pockets of which are set and attached in well-balanced positions on the jackets, has been craved for. Herein, the term "center back waist length" shall mean a measurement from the back center of the neck line of an upper garment, or from the nape of the neck down the center back, to the waist line (hereinafter as referred to "back length line") for the upper garment.
Furthermore, in order to acquire well-balanced positions of front buttons and waist pockets which match with a customer's design image, it has been craved for to be capable of properly adjusting these positions as desired so as to meet the needs of customers.